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Guadeloupe

 

Les Saintes vues de Trois Rivières Basse Terre

One month stay January-February 2014

Trip

This way Air Caraïbes allows only one baggage (23kg max) in hold. Service is always excellent on board. But we fill a bit cramped in airbus A330; particularly when the passenger just before tilts his back seat.
Transfer from and to Pointe-à-Pitre airport, see this link.
Back to Europe with Corsair (poor service quality) even if Boeing 747-400 is a little bit more comfortable and includes individual movie screen.

Lodging

From an acquaintance, I got a gîte at Trois Rivières South Basse Terre.
(GPS : N 15°58'34" W 61°39'04")

gîte Trois Rivières Basse Terre

It owns a 2 rooms (F2) with a large patio and a studio flat (F1) in front of the pool.

patio gîte Trois Rivières studio gîte Trois Rivières

All modern conveniences : microwaves, fridge, freezer in F2, electrical plates, air conditioning, tv in F1. WiFi, small pool, common barbecue..

The spot is splendid and overlooks the sea, seeing Les Saintes islands and Dominica.
Watch a panoramic view. (Wait during loading)
The kindness and welcome of the hosts is exceptional. It's a must.

Car renting

Thanks to the hosts, I rented a car in Trois Rivières (750€ a month). I have been outclassed, so I got a Renault Clio Diesel to the lodging.

LILY-CAR'S Location de voitures BORD DE MER 97114 TROIS-RIVIERES
0590 035403 / 0690 720753

Due to some gradients (sometimes 40% South and West coast in Basse Terre) I recommend renting a powerful engine.

Get the tank filled up as soon as possible because it's not uncommon to get strikes gas station.

Stay

Excellent feelings. The natives are really charming and helpful.

Basse Terre is heaven's hiker. See island forecast and particularly from Les Saintes.
The Soufrière volcano is often overcasted and heavy rainfalls are common.

Mosquitos, on duty night and day, could transmit dengue and chikungunya, so you must protect your skin with tropical repellent. There was an epidemic during my stay.

You 'll find out many little food stores and sometimes a butcher 's store (meat not very good). Practically no café to have a drink. In market places, prices are expensive even for the local vegetables and fruits. At the entrance of Trois Rivières, coming from North, you get some take-away food at an affording price.

La Ruche Trois Rivières

Touring

Many spots and islands to go all over, here are a few ones :

     • Botanic garden in Deshaiess.

jardin botanique Deshaies jardin botanique Deshaies

jardin botanique Deshaies

jardin botanique Deshaies jardin botanique Deshaies

     • Cocoa house in Pointe Noire.

La maison du cacao

     • Gardens of Saint Sauveur.
It's a small soap factory, 50 years old, in the road faced to the cemetery on main highway.

     • Coffee museum in Vieux Habitants.

musée café Vieux Habitants musée café Vieux Habitants

     • Banana museum (La Regrettée - Trois Rivières)

musée banane Regrettée Trois Rivières musée banane Regrettée Trois Rivières

     • Plantation Grand Café in Capesterre.

plantation grand café guadeloupe

     • Embroidery house and Fort Olive.

broderie fort olive fort olive

     • Lighthouse at Fort Olive.

phare fort olive

     • Delgres 's fort in Basse-Terre.

fort Delgres Basse-Terre

Watch a panoramic view from the fort. (Wait during loading)

     • The crossing road.
South of Pointe-à-Pitre, the D23 highway goes through Guadeloupe NP (Basse Terre) to Mahaut on West coast.
3 spots to see : Lézarde fall, crawfish waterfall, forest house.

cascade aux écrevisses

     • Tip of Hell N-E Grande Terre.

pointe enfer grande terre guadeloupe

     • Castels tip S-E Grande Terre.

pointe chateaux grande terre guadeloupe

     • Les Saintes islands.

Les Saintes

A shuttle maintains a link from Trois Rivières to Terre de Haut (15 min - 30 min). 16 or 20€ a return ticket. Another shuttle gets you to Terre de Haut, then Terre de Bas : Val Fleury. 16€ or 23€ a return ticket. Other shuttles from Basse-Terre city and Pointe-à-Pitre.

navettes Les Saintes

When landing, people rush to rent scooter, electrical car, or minivan. It's like a chaos. Prices are affordable if you want to go shopping.
I prefer going to Terre de Bas, a very peaceful place.
Watch a panoramic view from this island. (Wait during loading)

Terre de haut

Suggestions

     • Natural stones and lithotherapy, have a look to this magasin at the entrance of Basse-Terre, just before roundabout.
Bd Gerty Archimède 97100 Basse-Terre Tél : 0590 940 196 mail : lemondedescristaux@orange.fr

     • In Deshaies : Restaurant Le Mouillage 97126 Deshaies 0590 284112

Restaurant Le Mouillage Deshaies

Colombo cabri Restaurant Le Mouillage Deshaies brochette poisson Restaurant Le Mouillage Deshaies

Don't forget the slow rhytm of the natives. So don't be in hurry.

Another restaurant in Deshaies : Au coin des pécheurs.
About 100 yards after the previous mentioned.

Restaurant Au coin des pécheurs Deshaies

The owner uses his own vegetables for cooking. Very crowdy. So make a booking.

     • In Saint-François, going to Castles tip : restaurant « La rhumerie du pirate ».
Open every lunchtime + friday - saturday evenings.
Tél : 0590 832594 Mobile : 0690 377637 Fax : 0590 225923 mail : ansedesgalets.restaurant@gmail.com

Restaurant rhumerie du pirate saint François fricassée ouassou Restaurant rhumerie du pirate saint François

Excellent cooking. Make a booking or arrive early.

     • In Terre de Haut (Les Saintes), restaurant :
Le Génois rue Jean Calot. Tel : 0590 982599. Make a booking.

Restaurant Le Génois Les Saintes

     • In Terre de Bas (Les Saintes), don't miss to eat at restaurant chez Eugénette.
Excellent lobsters. Booking is essential. Tél : 0590 998183

Chez Eugenette Les Saintes Chez Eugenette Les Saintes

Here's an address to rent a room in a native 's home :
Chez Mamie Blonde, Terre de Bas. Tel : 0590 998626

     • On Satuday morning, don't miss the big market in Basse-Terre city.

     • Germaine 's kassava house in Capesterre.

Maniocerie de Germaine Capesterre

     •  Going to Ste Anne beachs. Very crowdy. (not in my pictures!)

Ste Anne Ste Anne


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